“If the earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capitol.”
- Napoleon Bonaparte
“If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on Istanbul.”
-Alphonse de Lamartine
Turkey has played so many roles historically and geographically. It has served as a capitol for the Roman Empire, the East Roman Empire, Latin Empire and the Ottoman Empire. In 1923 Mustafa Kemal Atatürk founded the Rupublic of Turkey and the country was then liberated.
Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, the third largest in the world. Located on the Bosphorus Strait, it extends itself across Europe and Asia. It is the only metropolis in the world that is situated between two continents. It has also had a few different names throughout its history- Byzantium, Augusta Antonina, Kostantiniyye, Constantinople (which “They Might be Giants” brought to everyone’s attention in the early 90’s) and its present day name- Istanbul which means, “in the city,” or “downtown.”
My first trip to Istanbul was a ten-day crash course history lesson, hitting all of the mandatory stops along the Mediterranean. It was hard to focus on anything, we were moving so fast. This time I had three glorious weeks to spend in Istanbul. I was able to soak in so much more and became well acquainted with its people, food and customs.
For most of our trip we were located in Moda, a district of Istanbul located on the Asia side, near the Marmora sea. Our days often consisted of walking down to the Kadiköy and catching the ferry there, a twenty minute journey accompanied by many cups of Çay (Turkish tea) and flocks of enthusiastic seagulls, that brought us across the Bosphorus and landed us on the European side of Istanbul.
From there, there was so much to see.
Sophia, originally constructed as a church between A.D. 532 and 537 on the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian, was later transformed into a mosque and now serves as a museum.
Yerebatan Cistern, a vast underground water storage tank originally built by Constantine the Great. Today it is a huge open space containing 336 columns and about 12 inches of water on the floor. Wooden planks have been laid down so you can walk amongst its columns. The natural acoustics of the room make it ideal for concerts and performances. And yes, we were lucky enough to be able to attend one of these concerts AND it was free. It just doesn’t get better than that. And so we sat, sipping our Çay, and simply listened. It was a great first day.
Topkapi Palace, the first Ottoman palace to be built. It began construction in 1466 and is located on the spot where the foundations of the city were first laid in ancient times. My favorite part of the palace . . . the view. It is one of the most beautiful views of Istanbul, incorporating the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, the two shores and the sea of Marmara.
Dolmabahçe Palace, built in neo-baroque style between 1843-1856. It consists of 285 rooms, 43 halls, and 6 Turkish baths. My kind of living! This place is decked out, much in the rococo period- crystal chandeliers, decorative tapestries, and lots of gold. Due to all the "bling bling," there is a steady armed watch just outside the palace. Dolmabahçe was built with the intention of replacing the Topkapi Palace which was out fashioned. It housed Sultans and their families before the Republic, and it was then used by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk during his visits to Istanbul.
More should be said about Atatürk. Atatürk, which means “father of the turks,” became the first leader of the R.P.P. (Republican Peoples Party) in 1919, the first speaker of the Parliament in April of 1920, the first Prime Minister of Turkey in May of 1920, and its first President from 1923-1938. He liberated Turkey by establishing the Republic of Turkey. He is still greatly adored and respected by his people to this day. He is hung upon every storefront and spoken within every political debate. He passed away within Dolmabahçe’s walls in 1938, due to illness. Out of respect, his rooms are still kept the way he left them.
The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the national mosque of Turkey. The mosque is one of several mosques known as “The Blue Mosque” for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior. It was built between 1609 and 1616. I love this mosque. Every time I walk through its walls, I feel at peace. Its history and customs are so thick and thunderous that I can’t help but stare, silently, in awe.
And after a good hour of silence and awe, I like to go shopping.
The Grand Bazaar, constructed between 1455 and 1461, is one of the largest covered markets in the world with more than 58 streets, over 1,200 shops, and has between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. It is well known for its jewelry, pottery, carpet shops and well, cheesy souvenirs.
Next on the shopping list was The Spice Bazaar, one of the oldest bazaars in the city. It is the second largest covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar. The building itself is part of the Yeni Mosque
and, long ago, rents from the shops within were intended to help pay for the upkeep of the mosque. The structure was completed in 1660. The bazaar was, and still is, the center for spice trade in Istanbul. I know this blog is not scratch and sniff so I must say that aside from the amazing colors that filled these halls, the scents were ridiculous. My senses were on overload. Spices for days and their scents were all stunning.
While that completes the Istanbul top ten countdown, there were so many other tunes I’d like to pay tribute to . . .
First of all this trip was birthed through the dreams and conception of the Hanci, Smith, Mills & Castle foundation, it was produced by Susan Smith, and then performed (brilliantly I might add) by a cast of six. We had a blast, not just visiting many of Istanbul’s historic sites but also by tasting their wine and food along the way, laughing amongst their people, and experiencing their traditions and culture. This trip also gave me the chance to get to know my family and friends a bit better. You don’t truly know someone until you’ve traveled with them. I know them each better than I did before- their quirks, idiosyncrasies, insecurities, impulses, and inspiration. I respect them more for it. Because of their openness and willingness to share, I feel a greater love for these people than ever before and am proud to call them family. So, this next segment is in dedication to the Hanci,Smith, Mills, & Castle foundation- I love you all.
We came to Istanbul and Celebrated . . . .
We Celebrated Christmas,
We celebrated the old,
And welcomed in the New Year,
We bonded with ourselves,
And when we weren't doing all that . . . we played chess.
Istanbul- a tale between two continents and a bridge between 6 individuals.
And One final note: I would like to dedicate this month's blog to a loud mouth little kitty named Jedi Jenjoe Hanci. Jedi- because that's the name he asked for, naturally. Jenjoe- because it was Joe and I who rescued him. And Hanci- because it was Tolga Hanci who couldn't resist this baby kittens charms. So Jedi Jenjoe Hanci, we are all grateful to have you as the newest member of our family. You were a great way to start the New Year. Cheers. şerefe!
